Author: Ben & Joon

Friday Oct 7. Islares. 0 km Camino walking.

Our second night stay in the same lodging. Not having to unpack every night, and pack every morning is a small luxury. It’s also one of the biggest attractions why people take cruises. We have met people who have taken double digit cruises as a preferred way of vacationing!

We woke up about 30 mins later than usual this mornig, i.e. 7am. Perhaps our bodies have been conditioned for an early wake up, that we cannot sleep in?

We decided to take a bus into Castro Urdiales as Islares is really a small sleepy town with not much. Google Maps is must-have app as it shows the directions to the transit point (i.e. bus stop in this case) plus the buses (schedules, bus #). Using Google Translate, I was able to confirm with a local lady who came a few minutes later, that this was the right bus stop to catch the bus to C-D. Again, she later confirm the bus must be running late, as the printed schedule on the bus stop showed an earlier schedule than Google Maps (fortunately, latter was correct, otherwise, we would have an hour’s wait).

When asked which is their favorite season of the year, almost everyone will have a response and reasons why. A similar question in the same vein is which time of the day is one’s favorite?

I know many catch the sun set, but not many catch the sun rise. But from a photographic perspective, the morning sun shines the best soft light on objects. See if you agree from the following pictures.

We did walk in C-D; and Joon’s Fitbit buzzed that 10,000 step marker soon enough. We ended up with 14,000 steps (yesterday, we clocked in at 40,000 steps!).

We enjoyed being tourists for the morning – checking out the sights, taking pictures, having cafe con leche and cafe solo with pincos at a sidewalk table, people watching, popping into the various panaderia to wonder at the range of pastries, and taking advantage of the ‘menu del dia’ (menu of the day – which comes with 1st, 2nd courses, bread, dessert and water or table wine). One cultural difference is that the restaurants (in general) ask us to re-use our silverware from 1st course. Imagine the amount of water, soap and labor saved if America adopted this for non-5 star restaurants!

The rest of the afternoon was some logistics planning. Earlier in the morning, I had posted on a Camino Forum a question about an upcoming coastal route. These Camino Forums are a wonderful resource of real life experiences. I had already booked a hotel on an inland route, and I was trying to assess if we could do the longer coastal route, as it seemed there was no accommodation options. To cut a long story short, I got a response, was able to re-arrange all my bookings for that stretch without any cancellation fees! Timing is everything.

Getting back to our hotel in Islares was a bit of adventure. Google Maps indicated we needed two buses (I suspect it didn’t have the local bus line in their system). So, we opted to walk about a km to a spot that we knew for sure, the return bus will pass by. Before we got to that target spot, we came across a bus stop, and a bus pulled up. I asked the driver whether it was going to Islares, she responded in Spanish that I should be waiting for Line 2 bus. The doors closed before I could sign-language whether this was the right bus stop. Well, what happened next was amazing. As the bus pulled away, I could see an old lady seated behind the bus driver gesturing to me that we have to walk further up to a different bus stop to catch Line 2. As we walked further upwards, Joon looked backwards (why?) and caught sight of Line 2 bus coming up. I was further ahead, and when I heard her called out, I saw the bus and instinctively put out my hand. Mind you, we were not at the next bus stop yet. The bus pulled to a screeching stop to let us in. The driver confirmed it was going to Islares. Second wonder! Is this all luck?

Finally, a Rest Day will be incomplete without restoring our inner spiritual balance. We spent time in the morning in Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asuncion. Joon spotted this hidden inside a gated chapel.

Thursday Oct 6. Pobena to Islares. 8 hrs 15 mins. 17km.

Today’s hike was one of the best, in terms of scenery as well as relative ease of terrain. We waited till 8am to leave our lodging Casa Rural Mugarri as it would be bright enough.

The start was a climb up about 120 steps according to the inn keeper. We prefer that to clambering over a mountain side trail that’s rocky and uneven. But once we reached the top, we had great views of the ocean and beach. The views got better as we walked along the coastline. This went on for more than an hour! There were no winds buffeting us, so it really was one of our most enjoyable walks.

Eventually we had to swing inland. And started walking alongside major roads. By checking Google Maps, I spotted two cafes that seemed to be open as we did not have any hot breakfast yet. We opted for the first one even though that was 100m out of the way as I had high confidence it would be open since there was a road sign pointing towards it and from the map, it was likely frequented by truckers. Voila, we had our hot breakfast at 10.20am. This decision proved correct because the second cafe did not appear to be open.

Sometimes we can go on auto-pilot in Life and on the Camino. In the latter case, it’s following the tried and Yellow Arrowed marked route. And mostly that’s goodness. But our guidebook recommended that we veer off the conventional route into Onton as that would continue us walking next to the major road. Rather it recommended going off onto a dirt road about 500m from Onton. How is one supposed to know that one is 500m from a destination that is ahead without any road signs?

Well, we knew that we were looking for a dirt path to the right as we walked towards Onton. Well, Someone up above arranged for a jogger to suddenly appear on the road running towards us. He seemed to jump out from the right side of the road.

This path led us to a beach. Where there was a grotto with the Virgin of Miono. We ascended shortly after that with a helpful Yellow Arrow painted on the road.

We all need our own ‘routes less traveled.’ That’s part of the Joy of Life, to sometimes wander with a carefree disposition.

Wed Oct 5. Bilbao to Poverno, 8 hours. 23km.

Getting out of a b-i-g city onto the Yellow Arrowed routes tends to be an undertaking because one’s booked accommodation is usually off the marked path. Generally as one enters a big city, one veers off on a direct route to one’s lodging using a map app.

There are Camino Apps that gets one back. We use a guidebook that outlined 4 possible routes and choose the one that our hotel was closest to.

We departed our lodging at 7.40am and our route took us by the Guggenheim Museum. Catching the morning rays off the exterior was cool.

Our route takes us along the river on the opposite bank. We crossed over on a bridge. The sidewalk was very broad. We did stop at a cafe that was opened that was on an inner street that was within 200m of the sidewalk.

The walk along the sidewalk would be to Las Arenas, about 8.4 km away. We opted to tanned an Euro 0.45 per person water taxi to the other side of the river, the Portugalete area. Our guidebook mis-printed the fares on the Puente Colgante by one decimal point as Euro 5.00 when it was Euro 0.50. Besides passengers, latter has space for 4 vehicles.

As we disembarked from the water taxi and wandered around the nearby square, searching for the Yellow Arrows, a gentleman approached us and started talking with us in various languages, starting with Japanese. Turns out he had an interest in languages and even knew a few words in Bahasa! Including the personal pronoun “I” used only by Malay royalty.

When we asked for directions, he shared there were two routes, one over the mountain (which our guidebook mentioned) and a coastal route! Our adventures began when we opted for latter.

This route would be about 12km, all the way to Pobena. In the early stages, it was a very enjoyable walk. Broad sidewalks with nearby cafes and restaurants. But as we got further out, the signs were much fewer and far in between.

We had to start relying on our maps app but had to backtrack when latter guided us to walk on a major road that had no sidewalks. So, we backtracked to the last Yellow Arrow that led down an alternative route. And then there were no other arrows that we could spot.

There’s a nature within us that seeks Security/Control, Independence/Power & Happiness. Situations such as above may cause anxiety. In allowing ourselves to be surprised, we allow Divine Providence to show up.

After studying the maps app, I deduced that a possible route was nearer the coastline. As we walked towards it, we saw two ladies coming from the direction. So we asked them, first in the stock Spanish phrase that I had memorized on where is the El Camino Way. Fortunately one of them was able to speak English. The other was an out of town friend of hers who did not know English.

After discussing asking themselves and consulting their own phones, they offered to drive us 3km up to a point where Loli (who speaks English) could point out the route (that she thought would lead us to Pobeno). Turns out they were nurses (the friend’s name is Monica).

We called them our angels!

What turns mis-adventures into adventures is accepting that I don’t always have to be in control. It’s accepting that surprises turn out in all shapes and sizes.

Guernica – Bilbao. 8 hours.

As I woke up at 6.30am this morning, there was a bit of listlessness. The question that seemed to lurk in the back of my mind was where was that joy? The answer came later during the morning walk. We had our usual yogurt and were fortunate to find a panaderia near our place that was open at 7.40am. Nothing beats fresh pastry early in the morning.

As we leave Gurnica, it would be remiss of me if I didn’t mention the historic significance of this town. It was the first town that was devastated by three hours of war time bombing by the Nazis in April 1937. The Spanish artist Pablo Picasso painted the anti-war painting known as “Guernica.” A tapestry copy hangs outside the UN Security Council to remind the need for peace.

The walk out of Guernica was pleasant, well marked and passing a park. They had a nice pilgrim sculpture to send you off.

The first part of the hike is a great balance of enough effort without over exertion. It gets the heart pumping, the lungs drawing in the fresh air. The endomorphin and adrenaline are rushing through the system. It’s a climb of 300m over 5 km. Through the wooded trails (a small stretch of muddy paths and stones, but after which had stretches like the PNW, dirt paths with pine needles).

So, where was the joy? Clearly the series of pictures highlight the joy of experiencing such beauty. But Joon put her finger on it – when we experience God’s presence.

We climbed higher to 1050 feet before descending. It pays to pause and study the various signboards placed for our benefit.

We did lose our way and went off track significantly, namely extended lots of energy going uphill for a stretch until we came to a fork and there were no Yellow Arrows. This cannot be! We had to backtrack almost 1/2 km to a fork where we had overlooked the Yellow Arrow on a signboard that was partially covered by hanging branches. Two life lessons – it’s never too late to back track when one is heading the wrong way; and when one comes to a fork, pause, pause and discern before deciding.

There was a long stretch of pavement walking next to a not so busy arterial road. The temperature was 26C or 78.8F. We walked all the way to Lezama, a total distance of about 21km. We then realized that in this heat, we would be foolish to attempt hiking up 300m and descending over 5km. We caught a bus into Bilbao. Which gave us time to rest and catch an early dinner,

When one is on a pilgrimage, one has to decide which is in charge – our self or God? Sometimes our Ego gets in the way.

Markina-Xemein to Guernica. 24.7km.

Yesterday was tough. Last night I woke up and just had the intuition that our bodies needed a Rest Day. Given I had already booked several nights ahead, we decided to take a couple of buses to Guernica today. First bus to Lekeito costs Euro 2.70 for both of us; second bus to Guernica was Euro 3.00. I estimated we traveled about 30 km or so, as it was a circuitous route.

As we made our way to the bus depot this morning, we had time to visit the nearby church. This caused us to ponder that sometimes, we are missing some of the town’s highlights. But given this is a pilgrimage for us, that’s a non-issue. When one arrives late in the evenings, one is typically too tired out. And as mentioned previously, there’s the Camino ‘rhythm’ of washing, reflections, etc.

Net, we are treating Day 6 as our Rest Day, taking the bus to the next stop. And exploring what Gurnica has to offer. We didn’t realize what treats were in store not the significance of Guernica. Only the Camino can work this out for us.

We got into Guernica at 11.45am. We decided to make our way to the cultural center where the Assembly used to meet and with some historical artifacts. Including the Tree of Gurnica! The attendant asked if we had an appointment, and when he realized we were Americans, he welcomed us to visit the center without charge nor appointment! What providence.

We walked a bit around the town center, which was lively. Lots of people gathered in cafes and restaurants, having drinks and pincos. There were plenty of shops too.

Just before 7pm, Joon was prompted to get us outside. We walked to the center and heard the church bells marking the hour. We saw a man outside an open door at the Iglesia Santa Maria. We approached and realized there was an evening mass in Spanish! Great Providence that we were able to celebrate.

In summary, we recovered in multiple dimensions – physically, emotionally and spiritually.

Sunday Oct 2. Deba to Markina-Xemein. 8 hrs 40 mins. Total ascent 851m; total descent 771m; 25.2km.

We left the Pension at 8.05am as we were outside Deba town. A staff showed us a gravel path down and gave us verbal and sign language directions. It’s amazing how effective sign language can be in communicating an underpass. It took us 35 mins to get into Deba town.

We met an old gentleman on his walk, and again through sign language we got the gist on where to cross the railway tracks, and back track to the bridge over the river. The Yellow Arrows started appearing once we reached the railway station.

We met David back tracking to town (we met him yesterday, he’s an American who lives and works in Berlin, Germany). He realized there was nothing open on the route ahead. He was backtracking to a bakery that was opened in Deba.

As our guidebook listed the locations for where the various water fountains/taps were, I decided that I would just fill one 32 oz/1 liter bottle container for both of us. This worked out well as I was able to strategically replenish. I left the other bottle empty to lessen the load.

Today’s ascent of 851m was similar to yesterday’s 850m. It was a mix of stony trails with muddy pools of water, and paved roads. One stretch that had an elevation gain of 300m was 2/3rds along a paved path that sloped gently upwards. This was much preferably than a steep incline over rocks and stones.

But the final stretch of descent of 200m was murder, involving inclines of 15 to 20 degrees (estimate). We had met a Spanish man, Denis and his Peruvian girlfriend, Celeste. They were carrying more than full backpacks. At this final descent, she had to walk backwards, holding onto his hand. It was that brutal as one’s toes kept coming up against the toe of the shoe to stop the downward momentum.

Early night at Casa Rural Intxauspe, which is 750m outside Markina. We will have to backtrack.

Sat Oct 1. Zarautz to Arriola (between Itziar and Deba). 8 hours 40 mins.

Weather forecast is for dry days for the next several days. As a precaution, we had brought our rain gear as we were caught unprepared once in Camino Frances. Fortunately the forecasts were correct and it was a dry and sunny day!

Walking out of Zarautz was along a walkway that skirted the ocean. It wasn’t a promenade like San Sebastian’s but nevertheless it was very popular on a Saturday. We saw 20 or more cycling groups, some large groups numbered in the high teens. Some joggers and walkers too, but they were outnumbered by the cyclists!

What we loved was that the City had provided water taps at various intervals along the walkway. In addition there was a modern restroom facility about a kilometer outside the city! Amazing consideration for those out for a walk, run or cycle.

Most pilgrims will find their walking legs by the third day. They also find their rhythm and pace, be it fast with rest stops, or slow without rest stops unless needed. On this Camino, we are drinking water with electrolytes. That seems to have a huge impact on our ability to walk for long stretches.

Adapting to a Camino rhythm settles in sooner or later, due to the daily routine of checking into a new lodging every night (excluding rest nights), and walking most of the day. Thus, the rhythm involves packing/un-packing, deciding on one’s breakfast routine, washing & drying of clothes, reflecting and/or journaling the day’s experiences.

Re breakfast, we opt to get out own breakfast the day before. We typically settle for some yogurt (protein), pastries/muffins (carbs) & juices. A self prepared breakfast doesn’t tie us down to the eatery’s opening hours and hindering an early start for us. But if it’s a short day, we would want to indulge in a breakfast at an eatery. We typically don’t walk well with a full stomach, as it acts as a mini-anchor! Our lunches on the go could be protein bars, nuts, trail mix, fruits, or a simple coffee and tortilla.

Walking daily for many hours seems to create a Zen mind. Issues, irritants, ‘problems’ roll off one like water off a duck’s back.

Thus, when a blister was starting to appear last night due to the wet shoes from Days 1 & 2, I didn’t fuss over it. Walked as usual, though I liberally applied more lubricant on the soles. The blister did not get worse. The Camino Provides once again.

As the mind gets de-cluttered with worldly concerns (that for the most part we are unable to change or impact), and filled with the beauty of Nature (aka God’s creation), the mind becomes more receptive to spiritual insights.

As I was absorbing all the beauty around me, my thoughts turned to the Seven Wonders of the World. Like most, I have desired to visit or see in person some of these wonders. They are not on my bucket list per se, but if an opportunity presents itself, I will likely make an effort.

A question arose within me, unbidden. ‘What is the Greatest Wonder of the World?’

It came to me unbidden – God’s Spirit dwelling within me is the greatest wonder for me, a Christian.

We opted to stay at a ‘rural casa’ which was 1km outside Deba town center. It was the Pension Tixki Polit. We had the best dinner since we started the Camino proper. Fortunately, there was a direct route to Deba from the Pension which saved us backtracking to the Camino route.

Friday, Sept 30. San Sebastián to Zarautz. 20km but up and down. About 9 hours. This was so welcomed after two days of rain.

Leaving San Sebastián in the morning was a joy. The walk along the promenade at Playa de La Concha ranks as one of the top promenade walks. Golden sand, wide promenade, strong waves with just the right amount of wind blowing at you. Interesting cloud formations on an overcast day, with some sunlight breathing through.

We lapsed into enjoying the walk along the promenade that we didn’t spot the turn off (not the usual Yellow Arrow painted on posts, walls or floors). We walked about a half km on and came to San Sebastian’s singing blow holes. There’s about 6 holes in the promenade floor and when the waves and winds come with the right force, it’s forced through these blow holes as vapor and sound. I took a video but it’s too large to upload here.

One final picture of the awesome clouds and ocean views on this overcast day.

One final farewell from San Sebastián as we left the promenade was this awesome ceramic mural covering this pedestrian tunnel.

As expected, the exit out required trekking uphill. Once we got out of the city limits, we were into the countryside. Fresh farm smells, meadows and generally, lack of any traffic noise. Open skies.

Pilar came up upon us, as we walk slowly and leisurely. She’s a Chilean, who has worked and lived in many countries, such as New Zealand, Australia, Spain etc. She shared that this was the first day of her first Camino! She was walking because of a number of life events, and thus, she had left her job, family and friends to just reflect and ponder on life’s next directions. We wish her well.

Taking extended time for a Camino walk can be very therapeutic and self-healing at many levels. It may seem daunting but one can decide on the route, duration and budget. Dis-connecting from the world once a while helps re-calibrate one’s inner gyroscope. Perhaps it’s a local trip somewhere simple that will also do the trick!

After making it through the countryside, we were headed down when we came across Naomi, who had set up a large tent with some refreshments. We view this as an opportunity to meet people especially those who are being hospitable to pilgrims. She’s very committed to Yeshua (Christ).

The goodwill from Naomi was probably to prepare us for a downhill stretch of about 1.5 km of large irregular boulders and stones. It was laid out like an old road but due to wear and tear, it takes more effort to navigate certain stretches without twisting one’s ankle!

Finally, we came unto this view of Zarautz. A great layout with plenty of beachfront. The golf course was the icing on the cake!

We stayed at Pension Txiki Polit, in the midst of a square. Plenty of eating options, bearing in mind that generally kitchens open at 8pm. Before then, it’s basically tapas/pincos.

We selected a less busy restaurant where most of the patrons were essentially socializing over beer and wine. There were several large screens but majority were following the soccer match. We were the only ones eating dinner! An early night like most.

Thursday Sept 29, Pasajes de San Juan to San Sebastián, 10-11km (longer if taking the coastal option).

We had an excellent breakfast at Donibenea, where we stayed the night. Freshly squeezed orange juice, yogurt plus granola, baguette plus meats and cheese, fruits. We didn’t realize it but we needed it for the walk ahead.

We took a small ferry boat to cross the port to the other side, otherwise it’s several kilometers to go around. The costs had gone up from 70 cents to Euro 1.10. Our hotel was about a minute walk away from the ferry point.

The rain started in earnest as we disembarked. It started pouring as we walked along the promenade to the lighthouse and the coastal route. Climbing the steps was walking up river. Water gushed downs and my boys were soaked. I needed wellies to get through this.

There were yellow arrows as well as a red and white bars. Latter denotes GR routes where there are downloadable GPX files to use with trail apps.

About 30 minutes into our walk, we mis-communicated and got separated. Both of us were wondering where the other was.

I walked faster thinking she had gone in front of me as I had dallied behind her for several minutes. As I navigated difficult stretches, I began to doubt she was in front of me. I flip flopped between walking fast and waiting. Finally I waited at a spot and twin sisters came up. They had not seen my wife nor passed her. I rushed ahead, and a couple from the other direction approached me. They too had not seen her and they had been walking towards me for past 30 minutes. There was no way she could have been walking 30 mins faster than me. This couple promised to let her know as they continued.

I waited a couple of minutes and decided that it would be better to walk backwards. At least, I would be walking towards her if she was walking towards me.

I caught up with the couple and we walked together as I updated them on the full story. Shortly afterwards, we saw an old man and his dog approaching us. Her only spoke Spanish and the young man translated for us. It seems the old man had seen and spoken with my wife. He recognized her picture on my phone. He had confirmed with her the direction to San Sebastián on a more direct non-coastal route. She was on a different route than me. What a relief!

Here are the views along the coastal route.

When I was finally able to connect and talk to my wife, she was already in San Sebastián. She had spoken with a young man to confirm the route into San Sebastián. She never spoke with an old man and a dog!

Today is the feast day of the archangels. Gabriel is one of the three mentioned. Gabriel delivers messages. Did I meet Gabriel today?

Wed Sept 28. Irun to Pasajes de San Juan; 15km; 550 meters up & down.

It was a rainy start. Some lessons need to learnt again as I neglected to put on my rain gear before leaving the hotel. Putting rain pants and other gear on the street is a chore that takes more time.

We had figured out from Internet searches and guide book where the Camino trail started. We used Google Maps to get there and off we were. Seeing the first yellow arrow was very re-assuring.

Leaving any city is typically alongside a major artery, and this was no different. We had to tolerate the carbon emissions for about 15 mins.

We were crossing this bridge over the river when a flock of white birds caught our eye. We stopped, enjoyed the spectacle and took in the picturesque scene. The crossing of the major arterial road to the beginning of the natural trails was about 50 meters ahead.

The rain was on and off. It was not the heavy monsoon rain, but with strong winds can be a bear. Parts of the trail were muddy. With pools of water. That’s when you know if your boots/shoes are waterproof. And that’s why we do not wear trainers.

The number of pilgrims on Norte were much fewer. The first pilgrim to engage in a chat with us turned out to be from Washington State, just like us! What a coincidence. His name was Jay, from Tacoma.

After 4km, we reached the Santuario de Guadalupe. There were great views of the Bidasoa Valley. We spent some prayer time in gratitude for God’s providence in our son’s major accident exactly four months ago.

Shortly after the Santuario, a decision to be made between the low level variant or high climb. We opted for latter as the views were much better given we are climbing 374 meters (vs 157 meters). It was a steep ascent, and poles are a great aid. We counted our blessings too that it did not rain during this stretch, and there were no flows of water streaming down.

Here are the views that makes this alternative route worth it. Do note that one is more exposed to the gale winds, and wearing a poncho makes things more challenging in such winds.

Our second son had messaged us his reflections on Psalm 23 yesterday. So, when we came on this herd of sheep, my thoughts naturally gravitated to Psalm 23. I wondered internally whether there was a black sheep among the herd. Joon pondered about the 99 sheep and the lost sheep. But when we did spot the black sheep in the herd, I loved what Joon said, “He belongs in the herd.”

We knew beforehand that for this first stage, we would not have any cafes nor villages. So we had prepared the day before, carrying enough water, protein bars, etc. One thing that seemed to make a significant difference was the electrolytes in the water!

Pasajes de San Juan is a lovely town by the water. Many locals visit. We noticed that even Victor Hugo, author of The Hunchback of Notre Dame & Les Miserables, had lived here!

Tomorrow, we take a water boat across the port to walk to San Sebastián.