Author: Ben & Joon

Monday Oct 17. Llanes to Celorio. 5.5km 1.5hrs. Travel Rest to Ribadesella.

We left Hotel Don Paco at 8-ish in the morning, after I backtracked as I thought I left something on the bed (later, I found I had packed into the bag).

Getting out of Llanes was easy and within 1km or so. We were soon in the countryside and some residential estate. We had booked a bus from Celorio to Belmonte de Pria to be able to spend the night at Ribadesella. The bus ride would saved us about 15km walking and 700 feet of ascent. We had 2.5 hours to walk the 5.5km from Llanes to the bus stop in Celorio, with lots of buffer.

We took a coastal route vs walking on the road. While the coastal scenery was much more limited, it was nonetheless more enjoyable walking in the countryside than on roads.

As we neared Celorio, it started to drizzle. Oops…I had forgotten to check the weather forecast app and assumed it was a dry overcast day. We shared one small umbrella and hustled to the bus stop.

That’s when I realized that I had again made an assumption from previous travels that I was heading for a bus depot. It was actually a bus stop on a major road outside the town center. Using Google Translate, I managed to confirm with a Spanish lady waiting at said bus stop that the Alsa bus would be stopping at said bus stop. Celorio was too small to have a bus depot.

Using Google Maps, I queried the options to Ribadesella as I wanted a back up option for a taxi all the way to our final destination for the day. Lo and behold, it was the same bus that I had booked!

We then discussed and agreed to take the bus to the final destination, rather than getting off at Belmonte de Pria and walking into Ribadesella. The driver charged us the difference to get to Ribadesella by stopping at our Belmonte bus stop and showing us on the meter, the additional costs. We gladly paid the difference.

Getting into Ribadesella earlier at 11-ish allowed us to spend some prayer time at the Iglesia Santa Maria Magdalena before it closed for the siesta hours.

We had 1/2 menu of the day, which was just right (we had been eating the full menu of the day and we were getting ‘stuffed’), A 1/2 menu means one selects from either the first or second course; the rest of the daily menu is still offered (bread, dessert, water or wine). Though if one has a healthy appetite, the cost difference between 1/2 and full menu (at this particular restaurant) was only Euro 3.

For us, a Rest Day can be a Travel Day especially when there’s inclement weather or terrain that’s too taxing for us. It’s important for us that the Physical is secondary to the Spiritual.

Sun Oct 16. Colombres to Llanes. 7 hours. 25km.

The puzzle why we didn’t meet many Spanish pilgrims during our walk was solved this morning. Spanish pilgrims constitute the largest percentage of peregrines and peregrinos on any Camino route. The Camino route passes the front door of our accommodation (Valbanera). As we exited the door at 8.01am, four Spanish pilgrims passed and greeted us! Yes, we were missing them largely because they have started walking much earlier than us!

We did not use any Camino-specific App on our first two Caminos. On the Camino del Norte, I have two Camino Apps, though my primary one is the paid App from WisePilgrim. This is because of the number of alternative routes and paucity of Yellow Arrows relative to the other Caminos. The App played a major role in today’s walk. The turn off was painted on the road and had faded. In the early morning light it was hard to spot especially if one was walking fast.

Walking in the early mornings with temperatures in the low 60s F can become addictive. Especially in the countryside where there’s no traffic noise. There must be yet some undiscovered therapeutic effects from such simple activities.

Misty mornings that roll over the landscape lends a dreamlike quality to what’s being perceived. A dream state that one wishes to linger in. To savor with one’s senses. To quiet the mind, to slow that internal rhythm.

The Camino App alerted us that we needed to cross the road to the other side. As I looked across the road, I could not perceive a notable break in the hedges. My eyes looked down on the road, and I noticed the faded arrows to cross the road at this specific point. We did that and as we crossed, the gap was clear. We crossed a railway track and entered the moors like area that ran along the coastline. We were in for a treat beyond our expectations, with the mist, the overcast clouds and the morning sun.

As the path neared the road before swinging back to the coastline, we decided to walk on the road. For us, this was the optimal balance, experiencing the first (and likely better half) section of the moors area and making some distances on paved paths. Balance is something that one quickly gets an intuitive sense for one’s journey. Sometimes it’s trade-offs like what we just discussed, other times it’s walking and taking some form of transportation. Or not. The Rule of the Camino – It’s your Camino. And not someone’s expectations.

As we made good progress on the side of the road, I erroneously assumed that the Yellow Arrows into Pendueles was marked up by merchants. And a km into it, I decided to check the Camino App and realized the error. Fortunately, the App (with its satellite overlay) showed me how we could rejoin the Camino about another km ahead. A bit of adventure of our own creating!

Uphill sections are a standard feature. There’s one stage on the Camino Frances, known as the Meseta, that’s flat for kilometers and kilometers. Unlike some who didn’t like the monotonous flat scenery, it was one of my favorite sections as I felt myself getting into a contemplative mindset. There’s no such stage on the Camino del Norte.

We climbed uphill through a residential area, along inner roads. And when we hit you a major road, there was a pedestrian path that brought us to a view point where we could see Llanes in the distance (probably 8-10km).

The App showed two options – along the road and along the mountainside. There was no pedestrian path along this two lane winding road downhill. We opted for the safer route which skirted a golf course. There were a lot of ups and downs, which I attributed to the design of the golf course!

One cannot but initially some frustration in coming uphill, getting to the top of said incline, only to view a descent and subsequent ascent, especially if latter is as high or even higher as current summit. As I mentioned, due to adjacent golf course, they did not or could not cut a more consistent/continuous incline and descent. This is what I term, the “sanding down” by the Camino. We learn to use sandpaper to smoothen the rough spots in a surface, to smoothen said surface. In the same way, this series of ascents and descents can sand down one’s frustrations. To accept this as part of the experience, and not to let frustrations bubble up. I didn’t realize it at that point in time, but an encore sanding experience was in store.

The descent into Llanes was a relief. So was the fact that our hotel Don Paco was next to the Camino route.

We checked in and discovered our bags were not there. After some back and forth, including via WhatsApp, we found that Correos had neglected to pick up our bags from last night’s hotel. This was a Sunday, and the Correos customer service representative initially wanted me to arrange a taxi to collect the bags and deliver, and they would reimburse me. After explaining I don’t speak Spanish and did not know a local taxi contact, Correos agreed to arrange with our current hotel, though I would have to pay and they will reimburse me.

Throughout this, I basically maintained my cool. Where the second round of sanding needed to be applied was waiting for the hotel taxi to collect and bring the bags. I was influenced by the previous day’s taxi ride in assuming the one way journey would take about 20-30 mins at most. When an hour came and passed, I began to get agitated. Waiting in the lobby likely compounded it, vs waiting in the room. I asked the hotel reception staff to call the taxi driver twice to assess whether he was on the way. The reception staff was in no doubt that I was not happy. And I voiced that I would complain to the hotel manager about the taxi driver. Latter arrived at that moment and I collected the bags and paid him. The sanding was completed when all my frustrations were released and I changed my mind about complaining. And realized it was a Sunday and the driver may be on overtime. The charges were very reasonable considering the two way journey and his time. The next morning, I messaged the hotel and complimented both reception staff and taxi driver.

I wonder if there’s more sanding ahead of me! But more importantly, I wonder if I can replace an instinct to complain, with one to compliment. That would be a great grace indeed.

Sat Oct 15. Comillas to San Vicente de la Baraqua. 3.5 hours, 10km. Taxi-ed to Colombres.

We left our hotel just after 8.10am, planning to eat tuna empanada with coffee. The panaderia was still closed. That turned out well for us as we caught some amazing sunrise painting of the sky and clouds.

Walking out of Comillas was on a pedestrian path alongside a major road. Eventually we turned to the coastline and our first stop was at Playa de Oyambre. There was a cafe there with a much needed restroom. The beach was dominated by surfers. All the vehicles parked there had racks to hold surf boards.

At the cafe, we caught up with Mary. She was with an American couple, Patrick and Jennifer (South Carolina). We got to chatting as they had finished their coffee. Jennifer was sharing how Mary came upon them when they had a down episode. Lo and behold, who should turn up on the Camino to provide some support but a woman named Mary! Mary in turn shared that she much appreciated us inviting her to walk a bit with us and chatting as she was on her own for most of that morning. The Camino somehow provides what is needed.

The 5km stretch from Playa de Oyambre to Gerry to La Brana had surfers. I assume they knew which sections had waves appropriate to their skill levels or developmental stages. It was clear that surfers are not merely pursuing their passion but that it’s a Lifestyle. Interestingly, we spotted an observer who was seated with a tripod and long range video camera seeking to record notable feats. Another observer just watching the surfing action through binoculars.

Catching and riding the big waves. The exhilaration of such a simple joy. What are the ‘waves’ in my current chosen lifestyle?

Waves create ripples. And so, our paths through the days touch others.

At San Vicente de la Barquera, we visited the de Santa Maria de Los Angeles, such as expected, is situated on a hill, the highest point in town. The statue of Inquistor Antonio del Corro adorning his tomb in the church is regarded as one of the finest pieces of Renaissance funerary art!

Surfers show us that we can truly enjoy and live Life when we don’t have so much “baggage.”

Friday Oct 14. Santillana Del Mar to Comillas. 7 hours (including lunch stop 40 mins); 22.5km.

Yesterday late afternoon, after checking in at 3.10pm, we freshen up and rested as it was siesta time and things are closed. We made our way to the Colegiata de Santa Juliana to visit before it closes at 6pm. After the visit, as we wandered around the ‘medieval’ part of Santillana Del Mar, we were totally exhausted. There was no way we could wait till 8pm for restaurants to offer the dinner menu.

Fortunately, we found a smaller establishment that offered entree meals at this hour that was minutes from our hotel. So, we are heartily (I had a stewed half chicken). We quickly realized the issue. Because we were walking coastal routes, without stopping for a proper lunch, we had exhausted our body’s store. A change in strategy was needed!

This morning, we decided to have a proper breakfast at the same establishment that we had dinner. We shared a tuna empanada (Euro 5). I had a cup of hot chocolate which totally floored me. In USA, this would be made from cocoa powder with water or milk. I had real chocolate!

As we started our walk at 8.30am, one of the first signs we saw in Santillana was this. It became a guiding light for the day.

This message came at the right time. I was wrestling with mental fatigue. It came about from the daily exertions, dealing with getting meals before kitchens open at 8pm, and planning ahead (accommodations, unique situations, alternative routing, etc.) Thus, this “Carpe Diem” sign had a significance for me beyond the literal meaning. And that was very much needed. In Life, fatigue can easily degenerate into something worse. A Carpe Diem moment with loved ones might just be the tonic!

The walk in the mooring was very refreshing. In the main, the walk was on country roads with little to no traffic at times. As one looks around at the diffused lighting., the soft pastel colors does reveal how the old masters were influenced in their paintings.

As we reached Cobreces, there was two route options. We decided based on the perceived length of the routes, to take the shorter route. The two routes would reconnect further along. We forgot to note that the shorter route would take us past a Playa (beach). We learnt that means a descent and subsequent ascent!

As we approached the Playa, there was a restaurant with a patio overlooking the beach. Keeping to the theme of the day, we seized the opportunity to stop for lunch. Again, fortune was with us as the lunch menu was only available at 1pm, which would have required a wait of 30 minutes. But the cook agreed to take our orders at 12.30pm. Luck favors those who ask!

After lunch, we climb uphill and walked on some roads that passed residential homes. The temperatures were also climbing with us, Pat the forecast of 71F to 73F. It was taking some effort especially with an uphill ascent on hot asphalt roads. We spotted an ermitage at the top of a 4-way intersection. We planned to rest a bit in the shadow of said structure.

Having rested and prayed, we soldiered on to our lodging.

Postscript – We met Mary from outside Brisbane, Australia at a cafe. We walked and chatted with her a bit. Yesterday we met a Spaniard named Josea (Joseph in English)!

To seize the day is a mind set, an attitude and most importantly, a grateful heart.

Thursday Oct 13. Soto de Mayor to Santillana Del Mar. 6.5 hours. Estimated 20km walking as we took a train between Boo and Barreda.

We decided to have a simple breakfast of coffee and pastry s as we checked out. That was wise as that was the only coffee for the day as there were no other cafes along the remainder of the coastal route!

Fortunately we did not need to backtrack the way we entered Soto de Mayor but was able to join up further the coastal route. The joining was at the Playa de San Juan de La Canal. We reached the Playa at 8.37am as the sun was rising. Within 10 minutes after that, the sun was hidden by the thick overcast clouds!

For the rest of the morning and most of the afternoon, we didn’t see Mr. Sun again. It made for a cool walk along the coast. The climb wasn’t terribly difficult, likely within 200-250 feet.

One thing that stood out during today’s walk was the rock formations in the sea that remained as the Ice Age retreated millions of years ago. The oldest formation was estimated to be 135 millions years old!

Once we turned in from the coast line, we walked through a forest on nice cushioned dirt paths! The trees have great shade. We exited the forest to Boo de Pielagos. From there we took a train to Barreda. The rest of the walk was along roads and through residential areas, small towns, countryside before reaching Santillana.

Wed Oct 12. Santander to Soto de la Marina. 20km. 5.5 hrs (excluding rest stops).

Our two night stay at Alojamientos Cantiber was one of the great values in our Camino (with discount, Euro 46 per night). Their generous breakfast spread provided enough sustenance for a great start to our walk.

Raul, who had greeted us the first day, and is an attentive host, provided directions on getting the Bus Line #1 or #2 to Parque de Mesones, which is at the end of the beach and the start of the coastal path/route. This saved us about 2.5-3.0km walking through the city center.

This coastal route from Santander to Boos de Pielagos is not the “official” Camino route, which is inland. It’s also much longer, 31.7km vs the 13.7km on the inland route. Thus, we decided to spend a night at Soto de la Marina, which is about 20km from Santander. This coastal route is not “Yellow Arrowed” though one does find sporadic yellow arrows at cross roads. However, because others have recorded and uploaded/shared their trek, I downloaded the GPX files and used Wikiloc App on my phone as the directional guidance. I only realized as we were about 5km from Soto de la Marina that leaving the Internet on was rapidly draining my phone battery. One can use the Wikiloc without Internet as it’s GPS signals only. Live and Learn.

Post edit: It wasn’t the Internet that was draining my battery but recording my own trek on Wikiloc!

We reached Parque de Mesones about 8.20am. The weather forecast was overcast with 40% chance of rain about 1-2pm (it was dry throughout our walk!). We climbed a flight of steps that brought us to a paved walkway, that was about 50 feet above sea level. The elevation for the beginning walk was in this range to about 100 feet. This allows one to be ‘closer’ to the action (‘waves’).

In the early part of the walk, we got to a promontory, which allowed us to look back at the beach and part of the city. The rock formations were striking, with white waves crashing upon them. The sun had yet to break through the heavy cloud cover.

There were a handful of walkers and runners, but we pretty much had the path to ourselves. This walkway will pass the lighthouse, Faro de Cabo Mayor.

The walk for the first 5km or so was on paved walkways. It gradually turned into dirt paths and stony/muddy paths. We were fortunate that it did not rain today. The views continued to be breath taking and we opted to stop at multiple points and soak in the experience.

As we walked, we noticed some men walking amongst the bushes and undergrowth. They were seeking or hunting for something as they wore gloves and were carrying plastic bags. We saw men also raking and trucking dried seaweed off the beaches.

The Generosity of Mother Nature, in giving us a no-charge therapeutic environment.

Mon Oct 10. Guemes to Santander. 15km + ferry ride. 5.5 hrs.

It’s jarring when one is getting used to the small villages and towns, to suddenly land in a big city like Santander. People moving around you, non-stop traffic on the roads, the cacophony of consumerism calling out from all the retail shops. Keeping one’s ‘balance’ is important as we walk; but I am getting ahead of myself.

Since we had a shorter walk today, we decided to have coffee plus some local cake at Posada Villa de Guemes before setting out. It was a change of pace, to be served in fine cups and enjoy the setting.

Walking out of Guemes at 8.30am was along the 2 lane road. There wasn’t much traffic against us. The walk was pleasant, cool and refreshing. We passed mainly countryside, residential areas in Galizano before coming to the coastal route.

This route was very uplifting. The weather was overcast, which meant there wasn’t much direct sun. But that meant blue skies were also a rarity. The coastal route passed along beaches and cliffs.

Why ‘balance’ as today’s theme? Look at the next picture and see what’s unusual.

It’s very rare for prime land like this to be kept for agriculture. In many countries, it would not be surprising to see commercial or residential developments.

Balance. Man using the land for cultivation purposes rather than development.

Balance. Living in the Present and Preparing for the Future. The Future will come to us, Day by Day, until there is no more Day.

Balance. We ended our day with a 6.30pm service at the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Asunción de Santander.