Author: Ben & Joon

May 4. Day 38. 20.6 km. Departed 0607 hours, arrived 1155 hours.

We decided to have a very early start to catch the sunrise. Not surprisingly, we came across several others starting that early. Torch lights/headlamps are needed.

The walk went through some forested areas early on. And then along paved roads and through villages and residential estates.

That’s how dark it was at 0616 hours as we reached the forested trail. The spot of light ahead was by other peregrinos who walked without any hesitation.

About 5 hours later, we lingered at Monte de Gozo (Mount of Joy). There was a fenced up monument as well as views of the city. We could spot the Cathedral towers.

Monte de Gozo (Mount of Joy).

As it was our last day on the Camino, personal contemplation was a priority.

We were able to make it in time for the 12pm Mass at the Iglesia de San Francisco. And confessional services too.

Facade of Iglesia San Francisco. Standing room at the back and sides of Church during the 12pm Mass.

We meet Roberto after Mass. He had arrived a day earlier and recounted his crossing paths with the same group of 76 high school kids that we came across yesterday. They were exhibiting their youthful exuberance. Roberto was on the point of fatigue as his backpack hip belt had broken at the start of his Camino in Lugo, and he had hip issues. But that exuberance motivated him to continue to be in front of this school group. He later thanked the teachers as he was initially annoyed. Strange how things worked out.

We backtracked out of the historic center to have lunch with Roberto at a pulperia that locals patronize. Great racions and riberio (wine).

After which we walked back to the Cathedral, sat in the courtyard, and visited with St James/ Santiago inside.

Us with our friends, Josephine and Richard.

A panoramic view of the Cathedral from courtyard.

There were a lot of emotions. We saw tears, hugging, shouts of recognition, taking off boots/shoes, peregrinos lying flat on their backs.

Reaching Santiago is a triumph of will power over the physical, mental and emotional challenges. But the transformation (metamorphosis) had only just begun.

Most, if not all, in the Camino forums and groups agree the Camino continues when one goes back to one’s life. Many also wonder how to retain their Camino-self.

Me thinks there are several challenges post-Camino.

1. One’s mind begins to fill up with everything that one emptied during the Camino.

2. One begins to revert to past reactions, perceptions, behaviors, etc. as these lie just under the surface.

3. One neglects to spend time alone or in contemplation.

I found that putting a ‘big and long pause’ between the triggering event and my normal reaction, helps me maintain that inner peace. And sufficient time for me to prioritize what I desire as an outcome. When words quickly fly out of my mouth, the odds are high that I will regret some words used. Keeping and nurturing the vision of my Purer Version requires discipline and spiritual assistance.

There’s more to process from this Camino. Let me close this post with some pictures from Finisterra and Muxia.

0.000km milestone marker in Finisterra. May 5.

Cabo Tourinan, Muxia. May 5.

Sunset at Cabo Tourinan.

Short video clip.

May 2. Day 36. 14.5 km. Departed 0730 hours, arrived at 1315 hours (after a one hour lunch stop).

Here are some pictures of Melide from yesterday evening when we walked up to a scenic viewpoint.

In the distance is the Iglesia de Santci Spiritus. One will see its bell tower as one walks into the town.

Part of Melide. Following two pictures taken from the grounds of Iglesia del Carmen, west end of town.

The upper part of the main altar of Iglesia de Santci Spiritus depicts the Assumption of the Virgin contemplated by the 12 Apostles in a composition that gives a sense of upward movement.

A shorter walk today due to some steep uphill stretches (latter emphasized by Roberto, our Camino Spaniard).

There was no fog, and getting out of Melide into the countryside was relatively short. We definitely came across more peregrinos since the Frances route converges with Primitivo (Joon made an excellent point that the Primitivo was the original route into Santiago). Thus, Frances converges ‘into’ Primitivo.

As we walked out of Melide, we came across this which we had seen on our Camino Portuges.

It’s set up and fed by a river. All four sides have sloping ledges. In the center is where the body of water pools. What do you think this was used for? Answer later.

A great forested section of today’s walk.

As you exit Boente, you will pass the Iglesia de Santiago de Boente on the right. Given the Camino is because of St James, and a sello is available, it’s worth dropping in.

Much further away, we opted for the alternate non-road route, and were treated to amazing views.

The trees and skies were a real treat.

Remember the uphill sections mentioned earlier? That’s how one gets amazing views like this!

Puente Ribadiso over the Iso River. Pilgrims, punning on it, called it Puente Paradiso (Paradise Bridge). A bridge has spanned here since 572!

Anticipating the last uphill challenge, we were swayed by this persuasive poster. And had lunch before reaching our destination (atypical for us).

Rather than opting for any set menu, given there were 4 of us, we decided on ala carte. We had pulpo, calamari, padron peppers and spaghetti. This approach worked out very well.

This final uphill stretch was ‘played up’ by Roberto. It was very manageable and easier than yesterday’s uphill. And that picture was a communal lsundry washing structure!

We are not relationship counsellors. But we do know that one important aspect of our Camino is to strengthen our bonds of love. So, I created a special memory event for Joon in the Mesetas. Walking together, walking separately but within sight, is our Camino approach. Talking about stuff that we normally don’t, expands our togetherness. Expressing feelings and love more openly is a joy. Praying together is our offering.

Two days to Santiago. Buen Camino.

Post Script: We are lodging at Apartmentos Arzua with our friends. We are using only two of the four bedrooms. There is a well equipped kitchen with washing machine and a comfortable furnished living room. It’s costing us Euro 70. A fantastic deal. Especially since we were able to make our own dinner.

May 1. Day 35. 21km. Departed 0805 hours, arrived 1400 hours.

The foggy morning returned which really made the walk easier. There was greater visibility than yesterday’s fog.

The walk was mainly countryside, a mix of trails and country roads. More animal farms.

One aspect of the Camino Primitivo is that there are less ‘established’ outlets serving peregrinos and hamlets are further apart. The plus is one doesn’t get distracted by cafes/villages, there are longer stretches of ‘solitude walking’. The minus is that the pricing of meals and non-albergue lodgings is like bigger towns. Thus, our lodging in Melide is cheaper and better furnished than in Ferreira.

The shorter distance today allowed us to walk a leisurely pace, and absorb the countryside. There were uphill and downhill sections but less onerous.

As we were leaving Ferreira, we came across this cascading stream. Having a stream, a river run nearby does add so much to the character and ambience.

A river further along the trails.

Can you spot the wind turbines? Nope, there was no rain, but at one stage, we could feel and see mist droplets falling.

Four friends enjoying their walk.

The views across the valley later in the morning as the sun came out.

How today’s trails entered this hamlet. That high wooden structure is called horreos, and was used to store grain.

The branches of this tree seemed so symmetrical.

There is a cumulative effect of walking the Camino for more than 30 days. One sees the wonders and beauty of the world around us with new eyes. One hears the voice within us. The inner peace returns, our hearts begin to sing. One begins to get to know one’s true self. The Purer Version.

Post Script:

We chatted with Roberto, a Spaniard at breakfast this morning. He recommended pulpo in Melide. In addition, the beef in this northern part of Spain was more flavorful. I must admit we have seen more cattle (and their droppings) in this section of our Camino!

Apr 30. Day 34. 27.1km. Departed 0725 hours, arrived 1450 hours.

Yesterday, Apr 29 we took the train to Lugo, a short 27 mins ride. It was a rest day. We met our friends from Singapore, Josephine and Richard, who will walk with us from Lugo to Santiago, the Camino Primitivo. We wanted to avoid the crowds who start from Sarria. We later found out that the Primitivo converges with the Frances routes after the second day, at Melide.

There were about 16 of us on the Primitivo this morning! Obviously, there are the late starters as there were several unclaimed bags at our lodging when we checked in at 4pm (after stopping for a longish lunch).

This morning was foggy until close to 1130 hours! That made for a cooler walk which helped a lot. But we used our headlamps to flash our presence as most of the walking was on roads.

The fog that descended this morning seemed such an appropriate reminder with respect to maintaining peace of mind and heart. We have to jealously guard the tranquility we had secured.

Leaving at 0725 hours from Lugo.

A bridge as we left Lugo.

That’s how far down one can see in this fog. And why we used our flashing headlamps to alert vehicle drivers.

The fog persisted for close to 4 hours.

One of the best parts of today’s walk, through this forested trail

The owner had set up this rest stop for Camino peregrinos. It’s the best set up. It had a vending machine, a microwave if you needed to warm up a dish, another sitting area (not in picture) and a modern wheel chair accessible toilet!! I really hope peregrinos support him/her!

The sun started shining down at about 1145 hours. Here’s some vapor trails that reminded us of the scallop shell.

The last 4-5 km had several uphill and downhill sections. We felt different stresses – shin, calves, ball of feet, etc.

We had a great lunch at the only cafeteria to serve lunch in Ferreira. Because we covered quite a bit of distance today, the next 4 stages/days will be less taxing.

We decided to skip dinner given the late and heavy lunch.

Apr 28. Day 32. 18 km (but felt like 24 km, due to non-protein breakfast!). Departed 0813 hours, arrived 1323 hours.

We opted for the shorter route as we left Triacastela. It was mainly country lanes passing villages and hamlets. There were less than 5 vehicles that passed us the entire morning (though today is a Sunday).

After so many uphill sections the past week, today’s still managed to challenge us. The muddy stretches were much shorter and less muddy. The landscape was more farm country as we passed several farms. Cows were a more common sight.

There was no rain at all, but we were treated to clouds hovering over the valleys and villages.

When one comes upon a particular scenic stretch, everyone will stop to admire (and take some pictures). We did too. The question arises when one starts walking from that brief stop – Does one resume one’s normal pace or does one slow down one’s pace? We can intellectualize about the Journey vs the Destination, but our habitual instincts/muscles will take over unless we are fully aware of the moment.

Today’s morning sun was a golden yellow.

Shadows of trees from the opposite hill cast down on their counterparts.

View of the cloud covering the valleys and villages/hamlets below.

As we entered these hamlets, the cloud was still persisting at 11am.

Picnic spot for an English tea?

This enterprising local had set up a rest stop for peregrinos.

Below sign caught our attention from the trail path, which led us to entrance of rest stop – Allow things to happen and you’ll start happening too.

A forested trail.

A tree that could feature in a children’s story book!

Sharing the trails with cows, which are being shepherded by a tractor!

A cow licking a dog! How did this affectionate behavior even begin?

And as we arrived in the outskirts of Sarria, we spotted this.

Love is blind.

Tomorrow is a rest day as we travel by train to Lugo to meet friends to begin the Camino Primitivo.

Apr 27. Day 31. 21.4 km. Departed 0800 hours, arrived 1355 hours.

O Cebreiro has historical significance. The Parish Priest of O Cebreiro, Father Elias Valina Sampedro was instrumental for the resurgence of the Camino. It was him that first painted the Yellow Arrows. A miracle happened too in the 14th century in the Parish Church, certified by Pope Innocent VIII.

Ideas, thoughts sometimes have to ferment before yielding its fruit. The idea of a Purer Version flittered in my mind this morning on the gorgeous walk.

I asked myself when was the last time I last felt ‘pure’, and it hit me. When I was a child of a certain age range.

Each day dawned as one full of promise. There was a carefree abandonment to and acceptance of everything that happened. There was no hankering to possess more of anything. Holding grudges or keeping ‘tally’ was an alien concept. Interactions were open and transparent. There was no judging. Wasn’t that a Pure version?

We had not prepared provisions for a DIY breakfast, and our lodging’s kitchen didn’t open till 9am. My thought was to walk until we find an open cafe. Lo and behold, as we exited our lodging, we met a German lady who was walking in the opposite direction to where we thought the way out should be. A short discussion revealed she was going to a cafe that opens at 6am! We followed her and thanked the Spirit’s timely intervention.

TIP: Check out the cafes that open early for breakfast in remote villages/hamlets the day before! We later came across others on the trails who were searching for open cafes. It’s likely they slept in lodgings that were further away from this specific cafe.

There were two uphill sections today, the first to Alto San Roque (1270m) with a statue of Santiago battling the wind. The second is to Alto do Poio (1335m). A final steep section of about 350-400m will pump your heart. Fortunately, there’s a cafe at the top of this climb.

After that, it’s relatively flat and downhill, hugging the mountainside for some stupendous views.

Some pictures around O Ceberiro.

Don’t miss this as you reach O Ceberiro! She’s waiting on a ledge by the road.

Joon outside the Church. A bust of Father Elias is on the right side of Church.

The cafe that opens at 6am. But like many businesses, there will only be one staff. P a t i e n c e is one of the virtues re-learned on the Camino.

A rest area as we were exiting O Ceberiro. A reminder of the snow they had.

Headwinds are part and parcel of a Camino.

One of the best parts of today’s walk is the wintery landscapes without the biting winds or cold temperatures. The air is sufficiently chilly to wake one up.

Yellow Scotch Broom flowers in foreground

It’s great to have the trails to oneself by letting others pass by. Solitude with one’s partner is therapeutic.

As one gets lower, the vibrant colors of the valley emerge.

The patch quilt on the mountain slopes was beguiling.

The bent and white tree trunks drew my eyes.

This old lady has been written about. She hands out pancakes, coated with some sugar. There’s no demand for payment, but most will give something in return.

We arrived at Triacastela. There was a mass at 6pm which we attended. Our lodging was literally next door to the Church. The Pastor invited peregrinos to come up and voice their special intentions. That was an unexpected and generous gesture.

After dinner, we caught this blue sky against a clump of trees as we walked back to our lodgings.